{"id":37,"date":"2012-02-18T14:24:56","date_gmt":"2012-02-18T14:24:56","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/axecaster.co.uk\/blog\/?p=37"},"modified":"2012-02-18T16:38:26","modified_gmt":"2012-02-18T16:38:26","slug":"lay-it-on-thin","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/axecaster.co.uk\/blog\/lay-it-on-thin\/","title":{"rendered":"Laying it on thin"},"content":{"rendered":"

The shellac I am using is a pre-mix. I chose pre-mix over mixing my own from flakes for pure ease of use.<\/p>\n

\"Applicator\"<\/a>
Cotton applicator<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I’m thinning the shellac with methylated spirit (de-natured alcohol for our transatlantic friends)\u00a0 – about 50%. This makes it easier to apply as it doesn’t dry so quickly, and believe me, it dries quickly! For the applicator, I cut up a NOS cotton t-shirt (seriously – it was a promo t-shirt still in its packet) and cut and folded it so there were no seams. I also had a small amount of pure linseed oil to use for lubricant, if it should be necessary. I pour some meths on the applicator, then dip it into the shellac and apply in long even strokes, along the grain. The technique I am using is described as imagining a plane landing then taking off – this helps prevent build-up at the start and end of the stroke. I try and overlap each stroke only a very small amount. I started on the rear and applied one coat, left it to dry for an hour and then applied a second coat. This was left to dry for about three hours, then I started building the layers. First the edge, then the back. The Bench Cookies keep the body off the worktop ensuring clear space around the edge. Approximately 3 hours between coats. (I used a thin dab of linseed oil on the pad for the first few coats, but I found that it was not really necessary with the thin shellac solution I am using)<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The end grain seems to be drinking up the shellac in an uneven fashion.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At six coats it was left to dry overnight, then flipped over and I started on the front. I continued to add to the edge while shellacking the front as the bottom edge was not taking the shellac as evenly as the rest.<\/p>\n

With the top also at six coats, it is left to dry overnight.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Waffle pattern left by the bench cookies.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Remember those Bench Cookies<\/a>? Indispensable for this sort of thing. They have very thinly textured rubber on both sides to prevent slipping. This has left an impression in the shellac. I thought the shellac had dried enough that this would not happen, but it seems I was wrong. It’s not a problem, and in fact cannot be felt. I had planned to level the shellac at this point anyway, so out comes the 00000 steel wool.<\/p>\n

Always working with the grain it only takes 5 – 10 minutes to completely level the entire body.\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Waffles are gone, the edge is now smooth and level and the body has a beautiful satin sheen. There are a few imperfections where I did not sand back the sanding sealer enough, but they will be under the pickguard, so I am not overly bothered. They may “burn in” as I add more coats, but if not it is not an issue.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
On the left you can see the trails left when I applied across the grain. On the right is the next coat, once again applied with the grain.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One of the great benefits of shellac is the way in which it seamlessly “burns-in” to the previous layer. This makes it particularly easy to\u00a0 repair. I applied one heavy coat across the grain to demonstrate this. The left picture was taken just before applying the next coat, and the right picture just after. Great stuff.<\/p>\n

As the shellac I have been using is transparent, it has not significantly changed the colour of the ash from the remnants of the grain filler. Time to do something about that.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The shellac I am using is a pre-mix. I chose pre-mix over mixing my own from flakes for pure ease of use. I’m thinning the shellac with methylated spirit (de-natured alcohol for our transatlantic friends)\u00a0 – about 50%. This makes it easier to apply as it doesn’t dry so quickly, and believe me, it dries […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[4],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\nLaying it on thin - axecaster.co.uk<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/axecaster.co.uk\/blog\/lay-it-on-thin\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Laying it on thin - axecaster.co.uk\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The shellac I am using is a pre-mix. I chose pre-mix over mixing my own from flakes for pure ease of use. I’m thinning the shellac with methylated spirit (de-natured alcohol for our transatlantic friends)\u00a0 – about 50%. 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